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Archaeometry - 2023 - Wozniak - First dye identification analyses conducted on textiles from Old Dongola Sudan 17th 18th (1).pdf2.29 MB
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First dye identification analyses conducted on textiles from Old Dongola (Sudan, 17th-18th centuries CE)

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dc.abstract.enThe Middle Nile Valley offers exceptional environmental conditions that allow the preservation of organic materials, including textiles. This paper presents the results of the analysis of 17 samples collected from wool, cotton, and silk textiles excavated in the ancient capital of Old Dongola from layers dated to the 17th and 18th centuries CE. Chemical analysis using high performance liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS/MS) have identified both plant and animal dyes. Locally produced textiles, mostly from wool and decorated with blue, green, orange, and yellow hues, were dyed with woad (Isatis tinctoria), flavonoid plants, and madder-type roots, which were already known and used by medieval dyers in that area. For the first time, kermes (Kermes vermilio) and lac-dye (Kerria species) have been also identified as a dye source in samples from this group. Imported fabrics, of cotton and silk, were dyed blue with woad (I. tinctoria) but also with indigo (Indigofera tinctoria); dyer's broom (Genista tinctoria) and kermes (K. vermilio) were other dyes identified in this second group. The results of this study provide the first dye identification for textiles produced in the 17th–18th c. Sudan and contribute new data to the research on textile production and trade in post-medieval Sudan.
dc.affiliationUniwersytet Warszawski
dc.affiliation.departmentCentrum Archeologii Śródziemnomorskiej im. Kazimierza Michałowskiego
dc.affiliation.otherZakład Chemii Fizycznej i Radiochemii
dc.affiliation.otherZakład Chemii Nieorganicznej i Analitycznej
dc.contributor.authorWozniak, Magdalena Maria
dc.contributor.authorWitkowski, Bartłomiej
dc.contributor.authorGierczak, Tomasz
dc.contributor.authorBiesaga, Magdalena
dc.date.accessioned2024-07-23T14:25:23Z
dc.date.available2024-07-23T14:25:23Z
dc.date.issued2023-10-23
dc.description.additionalAutor korespondencyjny, strona domowa: https://pcma.uw.edu.pl/o-nas/pracownicy/37149-2/
dc.description.grantnumberH2020 European Research Council, Grant/ Award Number: 759926
dc.description.grantnumberUniwersytet Warszawski, Grant/Award Number: PSP 501-D353-20-0004316
dc.description.granttitleUMMA
dc.description.number2
dc.description.versionfinal_published
dc.description.volume66
dc.identifier.doihttps://doi.org/10.1111/arcm.12930
dc.identifier.eissn1475-4754
dc.identifier.issn0003-813X
dc.identifier.orcid0000-0003-3551-2762
dc.identifier.urihttps://repozytorium.uw.edu.pl//handle/item/160427
dc.languageen
dc.pbn.affiliationarchaeology
dc.relation.ispartofArchaeometry
dc.relation.pages406-424
dc.rightsCC-BY-NC-ND
dc.rights.weblinkhttps://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/
dc.sciencecloudsend
dc.share.typePUBLISHER_WEBSITE
dc.subject.encotton
dc.subject.endyer's broom
dc.subject.enHPLC-MS/MS
dc.subject.enindigo
dc.subject.enkermes
dc.subject.enSudan
dc.subject.enwool
dc.titleFirst dye identification analyses conducted on textiles from Old Dongola (Sudan, 17th-18th centuries CE)
dc.typeJournalArticle
dspace.entity.typePublication