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Textile dyeing in Medieval Sudan evidenced by HPLC-MS analyses: Material traces of a disappeared activity

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dc.abstract.enNumerous textiles dating back to Late Antiquity and Middle Ages found on archaeological sites in the Sudan preserve intact threads with vivid shades of blue, red and yellow. While some of these fabrics were imported, others are products of local textile craft. These textiles are the only witnesses to date of the dyeing activity practiced by the inhabitants of the Nubian kingdoms. The most popular decorative patterns were coloured bands and/or stripes, declined on a plain ground. More sophisticated fabrics preserve traces of geometrical or vegetal ornaments woven in tapestry or in broché. Independently of the technique chosen to embellish the fabric, the weaver needed dyed threads. Those can be coloured before spinning – as raw fibre, or after spinning – as yarns. A closer observation of the threads shows they are usually well dyed on their surface while the core appears less penetrated by the colour, which points to the application of the dye on spun threads. Except for the textiles, there is no other archaeological attestation of dyeing activity to date. The examination of 59 samples by HPLC-MS lead to the identification of the various plant dyes used in Ancient and Medieval Sudan and showed the combinations of these dyes to obtain various tones of a shade and create additional colours such as orange, pink or green.
dc.affiliationUniwersytet Warszawski
dc.contributor.authorBiesaga, Magdalena
dc.contributor.authorGierczak, Tomasz
dc.contributor.authorWitkowski, Bartłomiej
dc.contributor.authorGaneczko, Monika
dc.contributor.authorEusébe, Magdalena Woźniak
dc.date.accessioned2024-01-26T09:51:36Z
dc.date.available2024-01-26T09:51:36Z
dc.date.issued2021
dc.description.financePublikacja bezkosztowa
dc.description.volume38
dc.identifier.doi10.1016/J.JASREP.2021.103098
dc.identifier.issn2352-409X
dc.identifier.urihttps://repozytorium.uw.edu.pl//handle/item/121754
dc.identifier.weblinkhttps://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2352409X21003102?dgcid=author
dc.languageeng
dc.pbn.affiliationchemical sciences
dc.relation.ispartofJournal of Archaeological Science: Reports
dc.relation.pagesart.no. 103098
dc.rightsClosedAccess
dc.sciencecloudnosend
dc.subject.enTextiles
dc.subject.enSudan
dc.subject.endye identification (HPLC-MS)
dc.subject.enMadder
dc.subject.enIsatis tinctoria
dc.subject.enIndigofera tinctoria
dc.subject.enHenna
dc.subject.enWool
dc.titleTextile dyeing in Medieval Sudan evidenced by HPLC-MS analyses: Material traces of a disappeared activity
dc.typeReviewArticle
dspace.entity.typePublication